Dinner With Meg

The Spärrows. I’m ashamed to say that this place has been on my doorstep for the past couple of years and I’ve only just paid a visit. JUST as I’m about to move out of the city centre. But, in a nutshell, this place is worth a trip from far and wide. I’d say it’s my new favourite restaurant in the city.

I’ve heard about how good this place is for a while now. A colleague of mine of Eastern European heritage spoke so highly about it, going as far as saying it’s her favourite restaurant. I’ve heard others talk of it as some of the best food they’ve eaten – even better than restaurants they’ve visited that have a Michelin star. 

And since immersing myself into the world of food a little more seriously, I’ve seen countless critics rave about this place. It’s baffling as to why I’ve only just now tried it.

Nestled amongst Manchester’s Green Quarter sits The Spärrows – an establishment that oozes warmth and comfort in the midst of an area that is certainly rough around the edges. It sits on a main road, under a railway arch. There is no grand lighting outside, no obvious sign. Infact, there’s not even any windows to the place.

But as soon as you ring that buzzer, you’re welcomed – enwrapped in the homely arms of the restaurant. You’re taken through the curtain and straight into the thick of it. Draped in neutrals but boasting art, wine collections and book displays, the restaurant opens up into a beautiful space that’s perfectly lit, homely, and simple yet sophisticated. 

We had to wait a little while for our table by the kitchen, but honestly didn’t mind – it was great to see that they were so busy and to be honest, I was quite enjoying seeing the chefs at work in the kitchen. As is typical for the restaurant world, I’m sure it’s not always like this but they all seemed cool, calm and collected – they understood the assignment. Each dish was plated up with care and precision. They’re artists and the plate is their canvas. They’re truly masters of their craft.

We were taken to our table and ordered a bottle of wine (well, I always leave that job to my other half who knows a lot more about wine than I do). We selected the Ruldenis – a Pinot Grigio – which is one of the best whites I’ve had in a long time. You only had to take a sip from your glass before the waiter came to top it right back up again. You never went empty. It seems a simple thing, but it’s these simple gestures that do really make you feel well looked after.

It was recommended that we ordered about six dishes to share, and to be honest it was a hard ask to only pick that amount. We spent time playing around with different pasta and sauce combinations, determining which were best paired and which we fancied most.

Everything on the menu sounded delicious and after having tried an array of different dishes here, I have no doubt that every single one delivers. One thing I loved here is that the dishes are served in order of what pairs well together, and from lightest to heaviest. That way, you could enjoy everything fresh from the kitchen but without feeling too full too soon.

Here’s what we ordered:

Chorizo spätzle

The spätzle was probably my favourite type of pasta. Glossed with a gorgeously light spinach, cherry tomato, and chorizo sauce, every mouthful was utterly delicious. 

Guanciale pappardelle

Probably some of the best guanciale I’ve ever eaten in terms of taste and quality and I do think this was perfectly paired with our pasta of choice. It’s like the best carbonara you’ve ever eaten, elevated x10.

Käse gnocchi 

An underdog. Käse is emmental cheese and braised onion – simple on the surface really, but I didn’t expect to like this one as much as I did. I’m still thinking about it now.

Pelmeni (beef/pork) & a sour cream dip 

We settled on the Russian-style dumplings after a lot of deliberation between these and the pierogi (Polish-style). Filled with meat and piping hot, it perfectly contrasted the coolness of the sour cream dip.

Goulash tyrolese 

The pinnacle of hearty, homely, Eastern-European food for me. The meat fell apart and melted in the mouth. If only the plate was a bottomless pit of this. I didn’t want it to end (and was slightly gutted to have to share it…).

Smoked sausage 

Just delicious. The meat was such good quality with a gorgeous smokey flavour that the sauerkraut and the pickle gently sliced through. A lovely contrast in texture too.

I’d have loved dessert but in true Meg style I’d filled my boots with savoury courses (always my preference though!). I can just tell this is one of those meals I’m going to keep thinking about – all of it was absolutely delicious. Every dish was perfect, the service was spot on, and the atmosphere was just lovely in there. I honestly wouldn’t change a thing.

Until next time, and I certainly hope it isn’t too long.